Cycling Shoes Set-Up

A proper shoe fit for road cycling is critical to preventing discomfort, maximizing performance, and reducing injury. When your shoes are well-fitted, you’ll experience a more efficient pedal stroke, greater comfort, and avoid unnecessary foot pain. 

a. Choosing Cycling Shoes

Selecting the right cycling shoes is a crucial step in optimising bike fit. A full post on choosing shoes and cleats is in our upcoming Choosing Road-Cycling Components chapter, but here’s what matters most when selecting shoes for fit and performance:

Type of Cleats

The type of cleats (and therefore pedals) you want is first decision when selecting cycling shoes. The most common road cycling shoes are a 3-bolt system, but some cyclists prefer other options, for ease of walking or power monitoring options.

We do not wish to explore pedals here, but we will say, unless you want to show off how much you paid for pedals, or obsessively gram-count every component of your bike, you don't need expensive pedals. There is little functional difference between the pedal classes and for 90% of road-cyclists, the Shimano 105 pedals will be the obvious choice (for 3-bolt cleats) as they are reliable and long-lasting.

• SPD-SL (Shimano 3-Bolt System): Similar to Look cleats, available with different float options (fixed, 2°, 6°). Good for power transfer and stability.
  • Red: 0° float (fixed)
  • Blue: 2°-3° float
  • Yellow: 6°+ float (most common cleat for road-cyclists)
    
• SPD (Shimano 2-Bolt System, aka MTB Cleats): Preferred by people who people who prioritise ease of walking as more cleat protection is available on soles of shoes with SPD cleats.
• Look Keo (3-Bolt System): Large platform for efficient power transfer, with adjustable float for knee comfort.
  • Black Cleats: 0° float (fixed)
  • Grey Cleats: 4.5° float
  • Red Cleats: 9° float
• Speedplay (4-Bolt System): Highly adjustable, offering fine-tuned float (0-15°) and fore-aft positioning; ideal for riders needing precise adjustments or want power monitoring in pedals (rather than in crank arm).
  
  • Standard Tension (Black): More aero
  • Easy Tension (Grey): Easier release

Note of Cleat Float:

The float allows the foot to rotate slightly, reducing stress on the knees. Riders prone to knee issues might prefer cleats with more float, whilst those seeking consistent power transfer might opt for fixed-position cleats. However, it must be said that most cyclists would find the limited movement allowed by fixed floats surprisingly uncomfortable.

Summer vs. Winter Shoes

There are shoes for any weather available, but you can classify most shoes on the market into two categories.

• Summer Shoes: Lightweight, breathable, and designed for warm weather. They maximise ventilation, minimum insulation and limited rain/splash protection.
  
• Winter Shoes: Insulated, often waterproof, and designed to retain warmth. They tend to be bulkier, higher and less ventilated.

Note on Shoe Covers:

Instead of investing in winter-specific or waterproof shoes, lots of road-cyclists use overshoe or toe covers over summer shoes.

Note on Socks:

Many roadies will sing the praises of aero-socks, offering compression and ventilation on rides. If you like to ride in the winter, merino wool socks are a game changer, offering great insulation and ventilation.

Shoe Sizes

A well-fitted shoe should be snug but not restrictive. Unlike other shoes, you should not just look at the length of the shoe. Because you connect to the pedals, there is limited movement for your feet and having the correct size is more complicated than with other shoes.

• Length: Your longest toe should have a small amount of space but should not touch the end of the shoe.
  
• Width: Many brands offer wide-fit (or narrow-fit) shoes that can make a massive difference to comfort.
  
• Heel Cup & Toe Box: Your toes should not be cramped. The heel cup should be snug, but a slightly wider toe box can prevent pressure points and numbness during long rides.
  
• Arch Support: Different shoes offer different arch support (for high or low arches) and although this can be improved with insoles, it cannot be completely altered.
• Cleat Position: Not all shoes allow for free positioning of the cleat. Many shoes dictate the cleats to be in a (high and central) position that isn't always optimum.

Note on Insoles:

Due to the importance of a correctly fitting shoe and the pressure created by the cleat/pedal connection, cycling insoles are important. One thing that can improve discomfort on the bike the most is a correct insole for you. There is a wide variety of aftermarket insoles available, including modular insoles (or "footbeds") that can be adapted to suit your foot arches.

Sole Material

The stiffness of the sole directly affects power transfer and comfort. The deciding factor of the sole material is normally price you want to pay.

• Carbon Fiber Soles: The stiffest, lightest and most expensive option, ideal for maximum power transfer but less forgiving in terms of comfort.
• Composite (Carbon-Nylon Blend) Soles: A balance between stiffness and flexibility, suitable for riders who want performance with a bit more comfort.
• Nylon Soles: More flexible and comfortable but less efficient in power transfer, typically found in entry-level shoes.
  

Note on Ratchet-Dials:

Road-cycling shoes normally don't have laces. Most come with a number of ratchet dials to close the shoe. The number and position of dials can greatly affect comfort, especially if you want to adjust them on longs rides.

b. Measuring Your Feet

Again, the importance of a good fitting shoe is greater when cycling than with general life or walking. Lots of cycling-shoe brands offer more detailed sizing charts to aid finding the perfect fit, eg. https://www.lakecycling.com/pages/sizing-chart

Foot Length:

• Stand with your heel against a wall.
• Use a ruler or measuring tape to measure from the heel to the tip of your longest toe in mm.
  • Make sure to measure both feet since one foot is often longer than the other.
• Add 5mm, then use an online calculator to convert to EU sizes if needed (more accurate rather than US/UK sizes)
  

Practical Tip: If one foot measures 250mm and the other measures 255mm, you should choose shoes that accommodate the larger foot.

Foot Width:

• Measure the widest part of your foot, usually around the ball of the foot.
• Compare this measurement to the manufacturer’s sizing chart to determine the best shoe width.
  
• Look for shoes with equal or slightly wider (1-3mm) than what you measured.

Practical Tip: A foot that measures 95mm or more in width should look for a wide-fit shoe.

Foot Arch (Using the Wet Foot Test):

• Wet the bottom of your feet, and allow access water to fall.
• Step onto a piece of cardboard or a flat surface where you can clearly see the footprint and stand up.
  
• Analyse the imprint looking at size, position and shape of the arch.

Practical Tip: You can also often see other aspects such as toe-in or toe-out from the imprint of both feet in a natural standing position.

Foot Arch (for High Arches):

If you have high arches, it may be beneficial to measure arches for specialised insoles.

• If you're doing this at home, you can use a simple ruler or tape measure to determine the distance between the ground and the highest point of your arch.
  
• You can also visit a bike-fitter to use an arch measuring device or heat mapper to help find suitable shoes or insoles.

Practical Tip: A high arch may need a shoe with more structured arch support, while low arches may benefit from additional cushioning or arch correction insoles.

c. Cleat Positioning

Proper cleat positioning can drastically improve comfort and performance. Here’s how to set them up correctly.

Fore-Aft Positioning

The forward (fore) and back (aft) position. If your cleats are too far forward or backward, it can cause unnecessary pressure or misalignment, resulting in discomfort.

• General Rule: The cleat should be positioned so that the pedal axle sits directly under or just behind the ball of your foot.
  
• For aggressive styles: setting the cleat slightly forward increases power but may strain the calves.
• For endurance style: setting neutral to slightly rearward reduces calf fatigue and improves comfort.
  
• For climber style: setting it rearward will improve stability and calf fatigue.
• For comfort style: set the cleats as far back as shoes will allow to give you maximum foot stability, which will help all aspects of pedalling stroke.

To adjust: Move the cleat forward for more engagement of your calves or backward for more stability.

Practical tip: We would always recommend prioritising comfort over power gains with cleat fore-aft - the minimal gains will be outweighed if you are thinking about sore feet.

Angle Positioning

Your cleats should allow your feet to rest naturally on the pedals without forcing your knees into an awkward angle. Misalignment can cause knee strain or foot pain. Adjusting the angle of your cleats allows your foot to follow its natural rotation and helps prevent joint issues or muscle fatigue caused by incorrect alignment.

• Neutral Cleat Position: Most road-cycling shoes and cleats are designed to be placed in a neutral position, where the cleat is centered and your toes point forward.
• Inward Toe Position (Varus): This means your toes point slightly inward when riding, and your cleat may need to point slightly outward.
• Outward Toe Position (Valgus): In this case, your toes naturally point outward, and your cleat may need to point slightly inward.

To adjust:

• If your knees track inward: Rotate the cleats slightly outward (heel moves in).
• If your knees track outward: Rotate the cleats slightly inward (heel moves out).

Q-Factor

Q-Factor refers to the distance between your feet when clipped in. This is greatly affected by bottom-bracket, crank arms and pedal spindle widths, which can be difficult to (though not impossible) to alter. Finding shoes with lateral adjustment might be important for some cyclists.

• Narrow stance: Move cleats outward.
• Wider stance: Move cleats inward.
  

Practical tip: Variations of bottom-bracket, crank arms and pedal spindle widths for different Q-Factors are available. Wide-Set bottom brackets increase Q-Factor (for wider stance cyclists) are for narrow-set decrease Q-Factor (for narrow-stance cyclists). Some specialist pedals also offer adjustable Q-Factor.

d. Insoles & Shims

Insoles play a critical role in customising the fit of your shoes, especially if you have specific arch requirements. Shims can help to aid a natural position of your knee or imbalances between legs, but are high risk and can cause issues.

Insoles

Insoles (sometimes called footbeds) are available in different types, including custom orthotics, which are tailored specifically for your feet, and modular insoles, which allow you to make a range of adjustments for each foot. These insoles can be crucial in balancing the foot's alignment and maximising comfort.

• High arches: look for insoles with extra arch support to stabilise your foot and reduce pressure points.
  
• Low arches: look for insoles that provide more cushioning and support to prevent the foot from collapsing inward during cycling.
  

Cycling specific insoles come is many variations. Understanding your feet is important before looking for insoles. Adjustable (aka modular) or tailored (fully custom or semi-custom) insoles are becoming increasingly popular for amateurs as they offer large benefits to cycling comfort and performance.

Practical tip: A firmer based shoe are good for high arches to prevent your foot from overextending.

Shims

If you have selected appropriate shoes and setup cleats correctly and still experiencing issues, there are options to further modify the set-up of shoes for better interaction with the pedals. Natural issues, such as differences in leg length or rolling feet, can lead to knee or hip issues whilst cycling. Shims (including asymmetrical wedges and thick stacks) can be used to even out your pedal stroke and reduce discomfort, but they can also cause discomfort or harm if used incorrectly. 

With the vast variation in feet, legs and cycling shoes, it is difficult to give advice about this in a blog. We highly recommend you consult with a bike-fitter about your specific issues and needs if you're experiencing discomfort whilst cycling.

• Cleat Wedges (out of shoe between cleat & sole): Have one side thicker to work with natural foot tilting or cantering. Used to improve foot stability (not knee tracking) and should always be fitted with thicker edge on inside of foot.
• Heal wedge (inside shoe between sole & insole): improves fit of heel cup and can stabilise pedal stroke. It limits pronation of the foot with thicker side on the inside. Can be helpful if one shoe is feels too small although feet are similar size.
• Forefoot Wedge (inside shoe between sole & insole): designed to counter a fixed forefoot varus (natural tilted foot with big toes higher), but this is uncommon. Also sometimes used in reverse (with thicker side on outside) for forefoot valgus (small toe higher) but this is a rare issue. They can make it feel like the toes are being squashed and options that stop before toes are available. They can cause harm by creating pressure points against side of shoes and not recommended to try without advice from expert or bike-fitter.
• Stacks (out of shoe between cleat & sole): These are large shims that counter leg imbalances. Often recommended by bike fitting apps, to even out joint angles between left and right sides. However, the app does not consider that the body has often adapted naturally to these imbalances and they can lead to discomfort in the hip and pelvis.

Shims can fine-tune the interaction between foot and pedal, giving a more natural foot position and lower the use of cleat float whilst cycling, to ensure your pedalling mechanics are as efficient as possible. However, they can also cause discomfort or issues with knees, hips and pelvis. 

The first steps to rectifying problems: 

• Choose shoes that fit correctly
• Fit cleats to your needs (as far back as possible)
• Find insoles that fit your feet
• Consult expert for help with shims

Practical tip: Shims (including asymmetrical wedges and thick stacks) are designed to be used as singles and it is not recommended to combine multiple together for large adjustments - there is nearly always a better solution available for the issue.

Continue reading with Saddle Set-Up